Thursday, March 30, 2006

The New York Times

The Dining Out section is my wednesday treat.

This week's feature:

To Lure the French, Don't Be Too Sweet
Ed Alcock for The New York Times
A tower of dziriate, Algerian pastries filled with almond paste, at Bague de Kenza in Paris.

OVER lunch with my Parisian friend Florent in a frayed cafe off the trendy Rue Oberkampf several months ago, the conversation bounced, as it often does in France, between gastronomy and politics. Florent spoke with equal passion about where to buy the most exquisite bonbons and how various French politicians had dealt with the racial tensions that led to recent riots.

Then, in a characteristically French moment, politics and cuisine converged.

Florent leaned in over his glass of red wine. "You know what is getting to be fashionable right now in Paris," he said with a smile, "Maghreb pastry. If you want to try something really special, let's go around the corner to B. K."

Pronounced BAY-ka, B. K. is the affectionate nickname for Bague de Kenza, an Algerian pastry shop that has begun attracting a following of Parisians of non-North African descent. National sweet tooth notwithstanding, Parisians have never embraced what they call "pâtisserie orientale," which includes Middle Eastern as well as North African pastries, even though they are smitten with the savory side of the Tunisian, Algerian and Moroccan cuisines.

Part of this is prejudice. Many Parisians think that pâtisserie orientale is just too sweet.

But they have probably never tasted B. K.'s splendid ghribia, a mound-shaped cookie made from semolina flour, butter, and just a touch of sugar that melts on the tongue like a pecan sandie only wishes it could. Or the dziriate, a demitasse-size dainty filled with almond paste, honey and rosewater, that is more heady than sweet.

"It's trendy to bring a box from B. K. to someone's house when you are invited over to dinner, instead of chocolates," Florent told me as I paid for my outsized package of goodies, which I later bestowed on my appreciative hostess with an in-the-know flourish.

L'Hassen Rahmani, one of the owners of Bague de Kenza, said that when he opened the shop 15 years ago, most of his customers were North Africans. Now he estimates that just 20 percent are North African, which mirrors the changing demographic of the 11th Arrondissement.

"When this neighborhood gentrified," said Jenny Lefcourt, an American living steps away from B. K., "instead of fleeing, many of the North African businesses stayed and went upscale so they would appeal to the new neighborhood contingent. This has been happening all over the city."

Intrigued by this honeyed French subculture I knew so little about (sadly, I've yet to find many Maghreb pastries in New York), I spent several subsequent trips in Paris combing the quartiers, some gentrified and some not, indulging in research. Many sweets justified their cloying reputations, but the good ones were revelatory.

For instance, there were the perfumed cornes de gazelles I picked up at Pâtisserie Malika, a tiny storefront on Boulevard de Ménilmontant in the 20th Arrondissement. The pastry chef, Malika Bennour, emigrated from Rabat, Morocco, three years ago, where she made her confections for wedding feasts and parties. Slightly more rustic than the glistening bonbons at B. K., her pastries have a homemade delicacy. The cornes de gazelles, crumbly, crescent-shaped cookies filled with cinnamon, almonds, and an intoxicating dose of orange blossom water, are her specialty. But that doesn't make them any more compelling than the extravagantly flaky baklava scented with hazelnuts, and the squat, square makrout — soft, Fig Newton-like cakes made from semolina, honey and dates.

"Once the French taste my pastries, they can see that they are not too sweet, and that I make them fresh," Ms. Bennour said, "then they fall in love with them."

And so did this American. Because weekly trips to Paris to satisfy my new Maghreb pastry cravings weren't an option, I begged for recipes. I pleaded, visited Malika and Bague de Kenza on every Paris trip, and called and e-mailed over and over from Brooklyn. My stalking yielded three successes: the baklava, cornes de gazelles and dziriate, also sometimes called dziriette.

The problem was that the recipes were in French, the measurements were in grams, and each lacked a method. The baklava I could figure out on my own, and I found enough cornes de gazelles recipes in various Moroccan cookbooks to adapt their technique using Ms. Bennour's ingredients and proportions (once I converted it all to ounces and cups). But the dziriate were less accessible. The few stabs I made using what Mr. Rahmani had sent were disastrous. Once I ended up with a sugary pile of crumbs; another time, with immobile sheets of cardboard instead of the gossamer pastry dough needed to hold the almond filling.

Nearly ready to abandon dziriate in favor of a bourbon and four aspirin, I did an online search that led me to a blog about Algerian cuisine by Farid Zadi (chefzadi.com), a chef who teaches at the California School of Culinary Arts. With his guidance, I was able to reconstruct Bague de Kenza's recipe. Though my results were clumsier and less refined than what one gets in Paris (isn't that always the case?) they were still tasty enough to disappear way too soon after I drizzled the last sticky drop of honey syrup over the tops. All three were hits, deemed unusual and addictive by even my ever-jaded circle of friends.

Getting the real thing in Paris has been getting easier. Bague de Kenza opened its third Paris location near the Bastille (it also has a location in the 15th Arrondissement and one in the suburbs), and Mr. Rahmani, along with his co-owner, Samira Fahim, published a cookbook, Les Douceurs de Kenza (Minerva, 2005).

Even the very chichi food hall in Le Bon Marché, the department store, is planning to expand its line of pâtisserie orientale, which it started carrying about five years ago, according to a press agent for the store, Dorothée Motir. She said this is a move meet the demand of French people who have traveled to Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia and tasted the pastries while there. Which, it seems to me, is an awfully long way to go when you could just take the Métro a few stops — or make them yourself.

Ed Alcock for The New York Times
A plate of sugar-dusted cornes de gazelles, baklava and dziriate at Le Miyanis, an Algerian shop.

Ed Alcock for The New York Times
Malika Bennour pours mint tea, the perfect accompaniment for her desserts at Pâtisserie Malika.


SIGH. j'adore paris.


Thursday, March 23, 2006

imparting kanye's wisdom

this line couldn't stand out more:

Cause ain't no tuition for havin' no ambition
And ain't no loans for sittin' your ass at home

sometimes, that sounds fine by me!

Monday, March 20, 2006

spring break

when you can't go home yourself, the next best thing is to have home come to you.

sharon and jean

the walnut posse

berkeley love

pam was happy to see don.

i, on the other hand...

please come again soon!
back to studying and normal eating habits now. boo.

Friday, March 17, 2006

karen's "Unwrapped"

i learned today that of all things written on this blog, my food finds/reviews are the most remembered and useful. yet another association with me and food, go figure. it's destiny, i suppose. after a long discussion with grace about the online community of blogs and xangas and the ways in which people use them as creative outlets for their individual purposes, i realized that mine has evolved significantly over the years. it just so happens that i heard it mentioned today more times than any other and each time it was over the entry entitled "the cookie that says new york". it apparently was a very informative piece that inspired a few people to venture out and try the delectable black and white cookie for themselves.

**disclaimer:
the prepackaged b&w's are significantly better than their bakery counterparts. sounds cheap and so unlike the food snob that i am, but i'm telling you, a moist cake goes hand in hand with all the preservatives and unintelligible chemical additives of american snackfood. if it's a crumbly cornbread-textured cookie you want, go for the bakery, but it most definitely isn't on my recommendation.


i decided that i will, from time to time, include other educational exposers on interesting food facts (just like Food Network's enthralling show, Unwrapped) should they happen to surface in my mind.

this is for you, grace.

Brooklyn Egg Cream

So... What's an Egg Cream?

This is a phenomenal beverage, and if you have never had a New York Egg Cream then you are truly in for a treat. Let's start off by explaining what an Egg Cream is (and what it isn't). First, it was a soda produced almost exclusively in the soda fountains of New York (particularly Brooklyn). Second, there are no eggs in an egg cream. Third, many Egg Creams don't even contain cream. It does however contain chocolate, seltzer, and either milk, cream, or both. When made correctly, the taste is absolutely wonderful, and completely different than any soda on the market today.

The best way to describe the taste of an Egg Cream is to remember back to when you had an ice cream soda. If you can remember sipping on the straw, once the ice cream had a chance to melt, the wonderful taste of flavors produced by the blending of melted ice cream, chocolate syrup, and seltzer water, would best describe how an Egg Cream taste. There are other chocolate soda beverages on the market, but they all taste like chocolate milk made with water. These do not even come close to the complex and wonderfully delightful taste of an Egg Cream.

According to an article published in Esquire Magazine in the 1970's, the Egg Cream was invented in 1890 by Louis Auster, a Jewish candy shop owner in Brooklyn, New York. The beverage was extremely popular, and the candy shop (eventually five candy shops) would be standing room only. Lines would form down the street and around the corner, and according to the article, this started a tradition of drinking the egg cream while standing -- never sitting.

During the 1920's (or maybe the 30's), Mr. Auster was approached by a national ice cream chain, and they offered to buy the rights to the Egg Cream for a fairly small sum. When Mr. Auster turned them down, one of the executives called him by a racial slur, and Mr. Auster vowed to take the Egg Cream formula to his grave. Furthermore, he also instructed the few relatives that knew the secret formula to do the same -- and they all did just exactly that. The only surviving member of the Auster family that still knows the secret is Mr. Auster's grandson, Stanley Auster, and he too has vowed never to reveal the secret. However, Stanley Auster has been quoted as saying that the original Egg Cream contained neither eggs nor cream, and that the origins of its name have been lost.

Here are several theories regarding the name, and ingredients, of the egg cream.

1. When Louis Auster created the Egg Cream it originally contained both eggs and cream and that was were the name came from. However, he may have later changed the formula eliminating the eggs and cream but keeping the same name.

2. The name Egg Cream was derived as a marketing technique. Eggs and cream were both very popular ingredients in better sodas at the time, but added to the cost of the drink. Louis Auster may have found a way to make a drink that tasted like it contained both of these ingredients even though it didn't. Calling the drink an Egg Cream, based on its taste, even though it contained neither may have simply been good marketing. (As a side note, drinks that contained eggs were shaken thoroughly with shaved ice and then strained -- you would have never tasted the egg).

3. It is possible that Louis Auster's Egg Cream contained only chocolate syrup, soda water, and maybe milk -- But the chocolate syrup might have been prepared with both eggs and cream (thus the name).

4. Mr. Auster was Jewish, as were most of his customers at the time the Egg Cream was invented. It is possible the Egg Cream is actually a Yiddish name or phrase that has been Americanized. The Yiddish word for "Pure" is "Ekt" (I hope I got the spelling right). I have no idea what Yiddish word sounds close to cream, but for arguments sake let's say "Keem" is Yiddish for "Sweetness". This would have made "Ekt Keem" or "Pure Sweetness" the original name, and it simply became corrupted into Egg Cream.

5. The most likely theory was sent to me by an old time Brooklynite. He said that when he was a kid (about 60 years ago) he used to order an "A cream." This makes a lot of since. An "A cream" sounds a lot like an "egg cream" and the best soda fountain drink was usually its chocolate drink (its "A" list drink).

In any event, the Egg Cream had a life of its own, and other soda fountain operators began selling they're own versions of the Egg Cream. Initially, each of the different soda fountains produced widely different versions of the Egg Cream, but eventually a formula consisting of seltzer water (3/4 of a glass), chocolate syrup (usually Fox's U-Bet, 1-2 oz.), and either cream or milk (not too much) was settled upon. The Egg Cream remained a product sold only through New York soda fountains for many years. The reason for this was that bottled versions were impossible to make. The cream, chocolate, and soda had a tendency to separate and to go bad after a couple days at best, and efforts to pasteurize or preserve the product ruined the taste.

That is until the last couple of years. A fellow by the name of Jeff Glotzer partnered up with a friend of his and the two men created a specially patented process to produce an Egg Cream containing the same ingredients as the Egg Creams sold at the old New York soda fountains -- but with a very long shelf life. Unfortunately, their partnership didn't last and the two men went their separate ways. However, the public now has two sources for an old-fashioned egg cream. Jeff's New York Egg Cream (no longer affiliated with Jeff), and The Big Brooklyn Egg Cream (Jeff's new company).

... This information comes courtesy of "The Soda Fountain."
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Egg Cream

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Jump to: navigation, search

An egg cream is a classic New York City beverage consisting of chocolate syrup (Almost always Fox's U-bet chocolate syrup in New York), milk, and seltzer (soda water), probably dating from the late 19th century, and is especially associated with Brooklyn, home of its inventor, Jewish candy shop owner Louis Auster. It contains neither eggs nor cream.

The origin of the name "egg cream" is constantly debated. Stanley Auster, the grandson of the inventor, has been quoted as saying that the origins of the name are lost in time.[1] One commonly accepted origin is that Egg is a corruption of the Yiddish word 'ekt' meaning good or pure, and this was a "good cream". It may also have been called an "Egg Cream" because in the late 1800s there were already many chocolate fountain/dessert drinks using actual eggs (e.g. 'Egg Brin'), and Auster wanted to capitalize on the name.

Though almost universally made with chocolate syrup, they were sometimes requested with other flavors, especially vanilla or strawberry.

The egg cream is almost exclusively a fountain drink; although there have been several attempts to bottle it none have been wholly successful, as its fresh taste and characteristic head requires mixing of the ingredients just before drinking. The drink could be described as a "poor man's ice cream soda," as it has a similar overall flavor, but traditionally sold for only a slight premium over an ordinary fountain soda.


Tuesday, March 14, 2006

all things dance

despite its dangerous minds-esque unlikely-teacher-inspiring-inner-city-kids theme, i REALLY wanna see Take the Lead. anything with dancing can easily make my favorite list.

Tuesday, March 07, 2006

bookwhore endeavors

this is one of two of my favorite stores in new york city. i can't go into this store without leaving with 3 books under my arm. it's like amazon but without the shipping costs!

About Strand Book Store

Inside the Strand bookstore Welcome to New York City's legendary Strand Book Store.

In 1927 Benjamin Bass opened Strand Book Store on 4th Avenue, New York's famous Book Row of America. Named after the famous publishing street in London and an old literary magazine, Strand Book Store has long been known for remarkable deals on great books.

Ben's son Fred began working in his father's store when he was ten years old. After a tour of duty in the Armed Forces, Fred returned to the family business and took over its management in 1956. Soon after, he moved it to its current location at the corner of Broadway and Twelfth Street. When Mr. Bass moved the store to its Broadway site he rented 4,000 square feet of the building. Now, four and a half decades later, he owns the building with Strand taking up five of the eleven floors, and a second store on Fulton Street in New York City's financial district.

Strand Book Store remains a fiercely independent family business. Fred's daughter Nancy represents a new generation of bookselling, bringing the Strand Book Store and its 200 plus employees into a new era.

Take a look around. Strandbooks.com has all of the great deals thousands of people come to Strand Book Store to find everyday. Find a book with our Search, browse our shelves for that elusive title, or buy a gift card to be mailed or emailed to someone today. If you want to keep shopping offline, join our mailing list.

We offer thousands of new titles at 50% off the cover price as well as a wide variety of "front list" books ordered directly from the publisher and obtainable at 20% or more off the cover price.

Strand buys thousands of books every day; our stock is continually changing. If we are out of stock on the title that you are looking for today, it may turn up soon. Place an order for it and we will let you know as soon as it arrives. You can use our new arrivals sort feature to keep up to date on the volumes constantly being added to our shelves.

We also feature the largest rare book collection in New York City, containing first and signed editions of many modern books, a large assortment of hard-to-find art and photography books, and collectibles in every field. Chances are you'll find what you're looking for, at a price that can't be beat.

We offer special services to libraries, universities and other institutions. Contact us directly, or call 212-473-1452 and we will tailor a custom account that matches your library's needs. And, as always, librarians are encouraged to stop by the store to personally select from our inventory.

For the interior decorator or set designer, we suggest buying or renting books by the foot. Give us your specifications and we'll select just the right thing to fill your shelf, all priced by the linear foot.

If you're in the New York area, drop by one of our stores. See the famous 18 miles of books and find the book you've been looking for.

thank you benjamin bass!

reading list:
finish Mere Christianity by C.S. Lewis
finish A Wild Sheep Chase by Haruki Murakami
finish The Unbearable Lightness of Being by Milan Kundera

then move onto...
The Fountainhead by Ayn Rand
The Chronicles of Narnia by C.S. Lewis
Guns, Germs, and Steel by Jared Diamond
Marley & Me by John Grogan

and if i can pick my way through it...
Paradise Lost by John Milton


Thursday, March 02, 2006

Four Things

Four books I'm reading:

  1. A Wild Sheep Chase, by Haruki Murakami (i only read one book at a time)
  2. a plethora of textbooks
  3. that can consume this entire list
  4. and then some.

Four Things I'm Learning:

  1. how to be a nurse
  2. how to engage this very diverse, urban culture at every level without exclusivity
  3. how to truly love and embrace others rather than fear their ignorantly labeled "worldly influence"
  4. how to "enter into a person's worldview, challenge that worldview and retell the story based on the Gospel"

Four celebrities I'd go with on a date:

  1. jake gyllenhaal
  2. jimmy fallon
  3. conan o'brien
  4. 3-way tie: john legend, dwayne wade, lebron james
  5. *somewhere in this list i have to squeeze in matthew broderick

Four jobs I'd like:

  1. overseas medical missionary
  2. star on broadway
  3. executive chef
  4. translator for every language in the world

Four clothing articles that I always pack for a trip:

  1. the hanes or fruit of the loom are my one and only clothing essential. everything else falls under toiletries.

Four favorite drinks:

  1. vitamin water
  2. tea with cream & sugar, the way the english like it
  3. chai lattes
  4. korean milk in the plastic cartons

Four groups of people that make me laugh.

  1. the fam, always
  2. friends, or else they wouldn't be
  3. the old snl cast
  4. kids

i tag whoever has time to do this.


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